Friday, April 30, 2021

The Social Contract of Thrift Stores: Do Resellers Go to the Bad Place?

In which we decide the eternal fate of Macklemore’s soul


I scored big at my local thrift store today. I found a gallon Ziplock bag stuffed full of L.O.L. dolls and accessories. If you have a daughter under age 14, you’re well aware that a 3-inch L.O.L. doll in its original (and excessive) packaging costs around $12. Since the dolls are a “surprise” (a nifty Skinner Box trick that compels people to keep buying and buying in hopes of completing their collection), people frequently resell duplicate dolls for around $10 each.

And I got the whole bag for 50 cents.

If I were a reseller— someone who scours thrift stores for hidden gems in order to resell them at a huge profit— I could have made upwards of $100 from this find. But I’m not. I just want to bribe my stubborn 3-year-old to poop in the potty.

Right after I made this fortuitous discovery, an old guy started chatting with me about the comparative merits of the local thrift shops. I like talking with weirdly enthusiastic strangers, so I didn’t mind. Midway through the conversation, though, he casually mentioned that he is a reseller.

Now, I am a very nice person. If someone unexpectedly revealed to me that they were a convicted murderer, I would tilt my head sympathetically and say, “That must be hard.” So I did not tell this man that he is a leech on society, the trailer-trash equivalent of a hedge fund manager who moves money around the stock market but contributes nothing of practical value to humanity.


I have no idea what hedge fund managers actually do, but I’m pretty sure I don’t approve of it.


There he was, scrounging around in the kitchenware section amongst the mismatched utensils and the knob-operated microwaves, while I had a hundred bucks in glittery baby-sexpot dolls in my cart. If he only knew what I snatched right from under his nose! He lacked the expertise necessary to recognize the dolls’ value, expertise which only comes from the lived experience of trying so desperately to appease a fiery 21st-century girl-dragon that you abandon all your pre-parenthood ideals about feminist toys.


I’m just really tired of cleaning up poop, OKAY?

The very pressing question I wish to address is this: what is the social contract of thrift stores? And do resellers violate it?

I’m no expert in social contract theory, but I did skim a Wikipedia article about it a few minutes ago. I’ve also watched The Good Place several times, so I’m familiar with Chidi’s summary of T. M. Scanlon’s book What We Owe to Each Other.


I think it had something to do with chili recipes.

To begin, we might ask, for whom do thrift stores exist? When I first started thrifting, I felt a little guilty about it because I wasn’t sure it was meant for me. I grew up as a member of the socioeconomic class that only donated to thrift stores. We certainly never shopped there, except perhaps to piece together a hobo costume for Halloween. Goodwill was the place you dropped off all your old junk when your mom went into a Spring Cleaning frenzy. We felt very good about giving our junk to The Poor who, if not for our generosity, would probably have to fashion loincloths out of dirty McDonald’s bags they found beside the highway

I don’t exactly need to shop at a thrift store. I could supply the necessities of life for my family by shopping at the mall, or at least at Target. But I like it. It allows me to indulge my consumerist impulses without aggravating the husband too much. (His main complaint is that our house becomes cluttered with thrifted toys and decorations, so our agreement is that I have to donate as much as I buy. I don’t do a great job of sticking to this agreement.) I also love the thrill of a good find. It’s the closest a housewife can get to digging up pirate treasure.


Yarrr! ‘Tis a genuine Lacoste polo in 4T!


I instinctively dislike resellers because their interests run counter to mine. They take the good stuff before I can get to it. I find time to go thrifting maybe once a week, and then I only have time to visit one or two shops. I search the specific sections where I hope to find items of use or enjoyment for myself and my family. The serious resellers are there every day. They know which shops have the best selections of which items, and they know when the sales are. They search the whole place and fill their carts with anything they can hock on Facebook Marketplace. Aren’t my motives purer than theirs?

If the purpose of thrift stores is to clothe the naked, as some donors suppose, then both I and the resellers are in violation of the social contract. If that purpose extends to anyone who thrifts items for their own personal use—including middle-class housewives—then I’m in the clear, while resellers are still bound for an eternity of butthole spiders and penis-flatteners.


You’re going to miss a lot of my references if you haven’t watched The Good Place, sorry.


Maybe this theory is all wrong, though. Maybe thrift stores don’t exist for the poor at all. Maybe they exist to give us a place to dump our junk without feeling guilty about our own wastefulness.

In that case, it doesn’t really matter what we do with the detritus of consumerism. If we put it to any use at all, that is noble and rebellious, a slightly more sanitary version of Dumpster diving.


Slightly


Perhaps resellers take maximum advantage of the wasteful rich by turning around and selling their own trash back to them.

To be fair, thrift stores often give part of their proceeds to charity. There is a grain of truth in the humanitarian fantasy of thrift store donors. They think they are clothing the naked with their outgrown Lululemon leggings, when actually they are clothing me, while only incidentally providing the homeless with a fraction of a bowl of soup and a free Bible. This veneer of charity can be pretty thin. Some thrift stores are for-profit businesses that exaggerate their charitable mission in order to provide a warm-fuzzy incentive to their customers.

I do think supporting thrift stores through donations AND shopping--moreso the shopping--is morally good, but not because they clothe the naked and feed the hungry. It's because they provide a buffer between the back of your closet and the landfill. They give us the chance to rescue valuable items from the trash and reduce our demand for new goods.

Maybe I and the resellers are violating the social contract that donors believe they are entering when they magnanimously deposit their trash bags full of mangy stuffed animals and "skinny clothes" they've given up ever wearing again at the back door of the Salvation Army. But it's a social contract based on a false premise of the true function of thrift stores, so I don't really care.

This brings us to the most important question: where will Macklemore’s soul spend eternity?

Let’s take a closer look at the lyrics of “Thrift Shop.”

Draped in a leopard mink, girls standin' next to me
Probably shoulda washed this, smells like R. Kelly's sheets
(Piss)
But shit, it was ninety-nine cents! (Bag it) Coppin' it, washin' it
'Bout to go and get some compliments
Passin' up on those moccasins someone else's been walkin' in them
Bummy and grungy, fuck it man, I am stuntin' and flossin' and
And savin' my money and I'm hella happy that's a bargain, bitch

 [ . . . ]

Thank your granddad for donating that plaid button-up shirt
'Cause right now I'm up in her skirt

In these passages, the speaker reveals that his motivation for thrift shopping is to attract members of the opposite sex with his original style while saving money.

But that’s not his only objective:

I could take some Pro Wings, make them cool, sell those
The sneaker heads would be like Aw, he got the Velcros

Although the speaker seems primarily interested in thrifting items for his own personal use, he doesn’t hesitate to use his street-fashion savvy to refurbish and resell his finds for a profit.

Macklemore is both a personal-use thrifter AND a reseller.

Towards the end, he reveals another, more political purpose to his thrifting:

They be like, Oh, that Gucci. That's hella tight
I'm like, Yo that's fifty dollars for a T-shirt
Limited edition, let's do some simple addition
Fifty dollars for a T-shirt, that's just some ignorant bitch (Shit)
I call that getting swindled and pimped (Shit)
I call that getting tricked by a business
That shirt's hella dope
And having the same one as six other people in this club is a hella don't
Peep game, come take a look through my telescope
Trying to get girls from a brand? Then you hella won't
Then you hella won't 

Watch the music video if you somehow haven’t already. Observe his jubilance as he bounds across tufted armchairs, his fur coat streaming majestically behind him. This is a man who has tapped into the deep heart of thrifting and found a well of joy. We should heed his wisdom.

Housewives, resellers, frugal fashion visionaries: we all engage in a radical and commendable act when we find value in the debris of our throwaway culture.

Conclusion: Macklemore belongs in the Good Place.


Ora pro nobis 

Anyway, this is what I like to believe, because it makes me feel better about all the thrifted L.O.L doll accessories littering my living room floor.

5 comments:

  1. I have occasionally found myself feeling guilty, feeeling like an illegitimate shopper when acquiring used clothing in the thrift stores. "I don't think this place exists for the likes of me. I could afford retail price for new clothes. I just hate to blow money on them when I'm happy with what I can find here".

    The charities that operate the thrift store are nonprofits, and as a person who used to work at a nonprofit, I've observed some things about the economics of nonprofit orgs. The items the thrift stores sell are donated. The organization sells them but doesn't necessarily make back what it costs to operate the store, even though they tend to get price breaks on site rental and utilities and don't pay their staff luxuriously (some may even be volunteers). But for this they get presence in the community; the thrift stores help to brand the organization. Promo and PR are assets of value.

    Most such organizations engage in a wide range of social work activities that are less visible but help the same target population that could not so easily afford retail shopping prices.

    The resellers do seem to be cheating though. They're like ticket scalpers.

    I bet if I were running the thrift store I could think of policies that would discourage the resellers.

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    1. I’ve seen stores that put limits on how many of any particular kind of item you can buy, e.g., no more than 6 books. But they can still buy a lot and it doesn’t do anything to discourage them from going for the stuff with the highest resell value.

      I was surprised to learn that some thrift stores are actually for-profit and only donate a very small portion of their proceeds to charity. I have a link above to an article about how Saver’s, the for-profit parent corporation of Value Village, got sued for exaggerating their charitable contributions in order to encourage consumers to shop there.

      I don’t know. I still feel that resellers’ interests are opposed to my personal interests, but I have trouble coming up with a theory of why it’s ok for me to shop there but not them. If they’re preventing poor people from finding the things they need at the thrift store, that’s bad. But if there’s enough for everyone, maybe they’re just helping to salvage more used goods from the landfill, which is a good thing.

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  2. I read this article. I think You put a lot of effort to create this article. I appreciate your work. Social Media Platform

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  3. Hi! Normally I enjoy your blog, but this made me wince a bit. For I myself was a reseller for a while! I had been downsized, having trouble at my age getting another job, and started selling used books on Amazon and eBay to supplement my meager unemployment checks. It helped me get back on my feet again. I didn't think I was being a leech -- I was actually trying not to be! And now that I'm in a better place, I do try to give back to the thrift stores where I found books to sell, making regular donations which I hope will help others in the same boat.

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    1. Hi! Thank you so much for reading, and I'm sorry I made you wince! In this post I was reexamining my assumptions about the purpose of thrift stores. My ultimate conclusion was that I was wrong to judge resellers, because anyone rescuing valuable items from the landfill is doing a good thing. That includes people donating to thrift stores, people buying from thrift stores, and resellers. So for whatever my opinion is worth, I think it's great that you were able to use reselling to get back on your feet and get books to people who wanted them!

      Also, sorry this reply is super delayed. I get scared of reading comments so I mostly don't.

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